Deosai National Park: An Alpine Plateau and the Land of Giants

Deosai's Unexplored Treasures: Hidden Gems and Adventure Trails

In Deosai, often referred to as the 'Land of Giants,' the essence of this place resonates through legends and ancestral tales. Named after the renowned poem by Mian Muhammad Baksh, Deosai's allure is steeped in folklore, its name echoing through generations. Spanning from the grandeur of the western Himalayas, this extraordinary alpine plateau unfurls—a canvas of undulating plains, gently rolling hills, a striking contrast to the typical narrow valleys hemmed in by steep mountain ranges.

Visualize the Sheosar Lake, nestled at an awe-inspiring altitude, a gleaming jewel of freshwater cradled within the cold alpine expanse. Here, life flourishes in a distinctive environment, a sanctuary for diverse alpine flora and a plethora of species. This realm, where two biogeographical provinces converge, showcases a rich tapestry of life—from the Karakoram range, the primary Himalayan crest, Zanskar range, Ladakh range, to the Indus valley.

Streams and rivers meander through vast expanses, nurturing these lands. Alpine meadows flourish alongside stony areas, dotted with tenacious dwarf willows and an array of flora surrounding water bodies. A natural cradle for life, this region births vital river systems like Shatung, Bara Pani, and Kala Pani, forming the mighty Shigar River. Sheosar is the largest lake, while other lakes are situated in the Burgi La area. The waters teem with life, hosting the Indus Snow Trout, Brown Trout, Tibetan Stone Loach, and Scaly Osman.

However, Deosai isn't just about landscapes. It's a sanctuary for life—a biodiversity hotspot. Home to the resilient Himalayan Brown Bear, defying the odds, a testament to this land's resilience. The populations in Pakistan face challenges—slow reproduction, habitat loss, poaching, and bear baiting. Seven populations persist in the Himalaya, Karakoram, and Hindu Kush ranges; yet, none match the size of the Deosai National Park's bear population, which increased from 19 in 1993 to 78 in 2022.

Wildlife thrives here—Tibetan wolves, Himalayan ibex, Tibetan red foxes, and the playful Golden marmots find solace amidst these plains.

The skies above Deosai resonate with the symphony of birds—an avian haven for residents and migrants alike. Gulls, Geese, Terns, and Plovers to Goldfinch, Red-fronted Serin, Rock Bunting, Golden Eagle, Eurasian Sparrowhawk, Griffon Vulture, Snowcock, Kestrels, and Pheasants find refuge in this highland sanctuary. And the charm doesn't end there; the landscapes are adorned with a tapestry of wildflowers, each spring and summer painting the valleys with vibrant hues, including an extensive variety of butterflies belonging to rare species hovering on the richly colored flowers.

The flora here dances to the tune of nature—around 342 species of medicinal and aromatic plants thrive in these plains. The wild thyme “Tumoro,” primarily used as herbal tea, golden ragwort, forget-me-nots, and a plethora of other species add their hues to this natural masterpiece.

Amidst the vastness, human presence is fleeting—extreme weather and isolation limit permanent settlement. Tourism, a brief visitor during the short summer, treads lightly. Traditional grazing rights are preserved for select seven communities, offering them passage to summer pastures within the park's boundaries.

As the seasons waltz through Deosai, temperatures swing from mild to freezing, from monsoons to snow-laden winters. The weather's unpredictability is as much a character here as the landscapes themselves. In summer, the Deosai National Park temperature is mild to moderately warm (15°C to 20°C), but nights can be near freezing. Monsoon season (July to September) brings occasional rainfall. Autumn sees mild days (10°C to 15°C) and colder nights with picturesque foliage. Winters are harsh, with heavy snowfall and temperatures as low as -5°C. Spring gradually transitions, with temperatures rising (5°C to 10°C). Weather can vary, so check forecasts and pack accordingly, including warm clothing and rain gear. In Deosai, a bright sunny day can change into a dark stormy one in the blink of an eye.

For those who dare to explore, lodging in nearby towns like Skardu or Astore offers a glimpse into this enigmatic realm. Campgrounds and glamping sites within the park provide refuge for the intrepid traveler.

Adventures in Deosai unfold with each step. Sheosar Lake beckons, reflecting the might of the surrounding peaks. Rivers like Bara Pani and Kaala Pani, adorned with trout, offer a canvas for fishing enthusiasts. Burji La unveils a glimpse of K2, while camping near Sheosar Lake becomes a night under a star-studded sky.

And beyond the trodden paths lie hidden gems—Gultari Valley, Minimarg Village, and the mystical Rainbow Lake near Domel Village—all waiting to be discovered in the cradle of Deosai's wilderness.

Journeys from Deosai into neighboring regions bear tales of permits and unexplored territories. Routes split, leading to remote locales like Gultari and Murtaza Top, each requiring entry permits and revealing a slice of borderland charm. In these border zones, nature dances with the geopolitics of the region. Permits are the currency, allowing passage into territories like Minimarg, with formalities etched in bureaucratic rituals that echo the vastness of the landscapes.

Deosai to Bari La, Deosai to Murtaza Top, and Deosai to Burzil Top and Beyond (Bordering Deosai) unravel pathways through this land of giants, whispers tales of mystery and exploration, each route a journey through nature's majesty and human intrigue.

Deosai to Bari La

Once in Deosai the road splits into two on Deosai Top. The road towards the left is called ‘Bari Laa’ (Middle/cheat way in local), which guides towards Gultari. Gultari is at a 6-hour traveling distance via the Bari La route from Deosai Top. Bari La is the most elevated point of Deosai. Bari La Top is home to 5 mini lakes.

Bari La crosses the Dudial and Martial villages following a crystal clear river to Faranshat. Faranshat is a military area as it is close to the Line of Control between Pakistan and India. Deosai to Pakistan Public Works (PWD) Guest House of Faranshat is a free zone but to maneuver around this region without entry permission is not allowed.

This road again splits into two branches; the left route goes to Gultari Shakma, which is part of LoC and does not allow anyone to visit there. The right side of the route connects you to Gultari Khas, locals and tourists having entry permits can only go to Gultari Khas.

Deosai to Murtaza Top

The second route to Gultari is from Murtaza top. Continuing the Deosai road from Skardu to Kala Pani, before getting into Sheosar Lake. The road divides into two, one goes to Murtaza Top (Mini Deosai), which is 2 to 2.5 hours from Deosai. From Murtaza top, moving ahead to Gultari or Minimarg requires an entry permit. Entry permit is mandatory for these border areas.

From Murtaza Top (Mini Deosai), the road branches in two again the roads connect Gultari and Minimarg respectively. Turn left for Gultari which will take 45 minutes. Turn right for Buzdil Top and then the same route leads to Minimarg.

Deosai to Burzil Top and Beyond (Bordering Deosai)

Going from Chillum (Chilam, Chillum Chowki), is the last village in Astore District, it takes 1 hour to get to Burzil Top from there. Burzil Top to Minimarg headquarters of 80 brigades (of Pakistan Army) is within 30 minutes. Camping is not allowed in Minimarg. You possibly can stay at the army mess, provided they have space. An entry permit is required to access Minimarg as it is part of the Line of Control. Rainbow Lake near Domel Village (30 - 45 minutes away) is within this jurisdiction and permission is required to enter.

Deosai—the land of giants, whispers tales of mystery and exploration, each route a journey through nature's majesty and human intrigue.